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日期:2008-02-01
川菜

川菜为什么会成为食者最多的地方菜系?

从地域上说
川菜是中国西部四川这块地方出现的菜。在秦末汉初就初具规模,唐宋时发展迅速,明清已富有名气。川菜成了一种影响很大的风味菜系,如今已遍及世界许多国家、地区。川菜它是属于中国的,也是属于世界的。

从历史上说
概括地说川菜发源于古代的巴国和蜀国,它是在巴蜀文化背景下形成的。到两汉两晋之时,就已呈现了初期的轮廓。隋唐五代,川菜有较大的发展。两宋时,川菜已跨越了巴蜀疆界,进入北宋东京、南宋临安两都,为川外人所知。明末清初,川菜运用引进种植的辣椒调味,对继承巴蜀早就形成的“尚滋味”、“好辛香”的调味传统,进一步有所发展。晚清以后,逐步形成为一个地方风味极其浓郁的体系,与黄河流域的鲁菜,岭南地区的粤菜,长江下游的淮扬菜同列。

从基本特征来说
川菜发展至今,得天独厚的自然条件和丰富的物产资源,对川菜的的发展,是一个重要而有利的条件。川菜由成都菜、重庆菜、自贡菜和素食佛斋菜组成。具有用料广博、味道多样、菜肴适应面广三个特征,其中尤以味型多、变化巧妙而著称。尤以麻辣、鱼香、怪味等味型独擅其长。“味在四川”,便是世人所公认的。

从烹饪方法来说
川菜拥有4000多个菜肴点心品种。这些菜点是由筵席菜、便餐菜、家常菜、三蒸九扣菜、风味小吃五个大类组成的。当今流行的川菜品种既有对历代川菜品种的传承,也有烹饪技术工作者的不断开拓、创新。

众多的川菜品种,是用多种烹饪方法制作出来的。川菜常用烹调技法近40种,长于小煎、小炒、干煸、干烧、家常烧等技法。小炒不过油,不换锅;干煸成菜味厚而不腻;干烧用汤恰当,味醇而鲜。家常烧先用中火热油翻炒豆瓣,入汤烧沸去渣,放料再用小火慢烧至成熟入味勾芡而成。川外人熟悉的麻婆豆腐就是用家常烧法烹饪的。

川菜的特产原料:

四川素有“天府之国”之称,烹饪原料当然是多而广的。56万平方公里境内,物产富庶。牛、羊、猪、狗、鸡、鸭、鹅、兔,可谓六畜兴旺,笋、韭、芹、藕、菠、蕹(Weng),堪称四季常青,淡水鱼有江团、岩鲤、雅鱼、长江鲟。即便是一些干杂品,如通江、万源的银耳,宜宾、乐山、涪陵、凉山等地出产的竹荪,青川、广元等地出产的黑木耳,宜宾、万县、涪陵、达川等地出产的香菇,四川多数地方都产的魔芋,均为佼佼者。就连石耳、地耳、绿菜、侧耳根、马齿苋这些生长在田边地头、深山河谷中的野菜之品,也成为做川菜的好材料。还有作为中药冬虫夏草、川贝母、川杜仲、天麻,亦被作为养生食疗的烹饪原料。四川人饮食特别讲究滋味,因此,很注意培养优良的种植调味品和生产、酿造高质量的调味品。自贡井盐、内江白糖、阆中保宁醋、中坝酱油、郫县豆瓣、清溪花椒、永川豆豉、涪陵榨菜、叙府芽菜、南充冬菜、新繁泡菜、忠州豆腐乳、温江独头蒜、北碚莴姜、成都二金条海椒等等,都是品质优异者。与烹饪和筵宴有密切关系的川茶川酒,其优质品种亦为举世公认。

著名的菜肴有:

回锅肉:
红绿相衬,咸中带甜,微辣醇鲜、味浓而香,是四川的传统菜肴。 鱼香肉丝:色红肉嫩,鱼香味突出。因模仿民间烹鱼的调料和方法制作,故名鱼香。

灯影牛肉:
色泽红亮,麻辣干香,回味甘美,味鲜适口,为佐酒佳肴。因其片薄透明,似民间“皮灯影”故称。

宫宝鸡丁:
鲜香细嫩、辣而不燥,略带酸甜味。

麻婆豆腐:
为四川省的传统风味菜肴。相传在清朝同治末年,成都有个姓陈的妇女,她脸上生有麻子,但是她烧得一手好菜,其店经营的豆腐特别有味道,它麻辣味鲜、色泽红亮,深受群众喜爱,因而得名。特点是:形整而不烂,具有浓厚的麻辣味,牛肉酥香鲜美。在国内外享有盛名。

怪味鸡块:
肉质鲜嫩,咸、甜、麻、辣、酸、香、各味俱全,互不压味,有一种特殊的味道,故名“怪味”。

Sichuan Cuisine

Of the eight major schools of China's culinary art, Sichuan cuisine is perhaps the most popular. Originating in Sichuan Province of westernChina, Sichuan cuisine, known as Chuan Cai in Chinese, enjoys an international reputation for beingspicy and flavorful. Yet the highly distinctive pungency is not its only characteristic. In fact, Sichuan cuisine boasts a variety of flavors and different methods of cooking, featuring the taste of hot, sweet, sour, salty, or tongue-numbing.

The origin of Sichuan cuisine can be traced back to the Qin and Han Dynasties (221BC-220AD), its recognition as a distinct regional system took place in the Han Dynasties (206BC-220AD). As a unique style of food, Sichuan cuisine was famous more than 800 years ago during the Southern Song Dynasty (1127-1279) when Sichuan restaurants were opened in Lin'an, now called Hangzhou, the capital. The hot pepper was introduced into China from South America around the end of the 17th century. Once it came to Sichuan, it became a favored food flavoring. In the late Qing Dynasty around 19th century, Sichuan cuisine became a unique local flavor, enjoying the same reputation with Shandong, Guangdong (Canton) and Huaiyang cuisines.

Sichuan has high humidity and many rainy or overcast days. Hot pepper helps reduce internal dampness, so it was used frequently in dishes, and hot dishes became the norm in Sichuan cuisine. The region's warm, humid climate also necessitates sophisticated food-preservation techniques which include picking, salting, drying and smoking.

Sichuan has been known as the land of plenty since ancient times. It produces abundant domestic animals, poultry, and freshwater fish and crayfish. Sichuan cuisine is well known for cooking fish. The raw materials are delicacies from land and river, edible wild herbs, and the meat of domestic animals and birds. Beef is more common in Sichuan cuisine than it is in other Chinese cuisines, perhaps due to the widespread use of oxen in the region. Stir-fried beef is often cooked until chewy, while steamed beef is sometimes coated with rice flour to produce rich gravy.

Sichuan dishes consist of Chengdu, Chongqing and vegetarian dishes. Masterly used cooking techniques are sauteing, stir-frying without stewing, dry-braising, Pao (soaking in water) and Hui (frying then braising with corn flour sauce). Sichuan cuisine is famous for its distinct and various flavors, the most outstanding ones are fish flavors, pepper powder boiled in oil, strange flavor and sticky-hot.

Statistics show that the number of Sichuan dishes has surpassed 5,000. Dishes typical of Sichuan are twice cooked pork, spicy diced chicken with peanuts, dry-fried shark fin, and fish-flavored pork shred. One of the popular dishes is Pockmarked Woman's bean curd (or Mapo Doufu in Chinese) which was invented by a Chengdu chef's pockmarked wife decades ago in the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911). The cubed bean curd is cooked over a low flame in a sauce which contains ground beef, chili, and pepper. When served, the bean curd is tender, spicy, and appetizing. Although many Sichuan dishes live up to their spicy reputation, often ignored are the large percentage of recipes that use little or no spice at all, including recipes such as "tea smoked duck".

 

粤菜

粤菜是中国著名菜系之一,其烹饪技艺精湛,独特的风味饮誉四方。

广东省内物产丰富,多奇珍异兽,食料与中原地区迥异。粤菜由广州菜、潮州菜、东江菜组成,注重清鲜、爽滑、脆嫩的风味特点,讲究清而不淡,鲜而不俗,脆嫩不生,油而不腻。

粤菜烹调技艺多样善变,如煲、泡、烤、炙等;用料奇异广博,如蚝油、沙茶、咖喱、鱼露等,这为粤菜的独特风味起了举足轻重的作用。

广州菜是集南海、番禺、顺德、中山等地方风味的特色,兼京、苏、扬、杭等外省菜及西菜之所长而融为一体、自成一家的烹饪菜式。广州菜最突出的特点是用料广泛,选料精细,技艺精良,善于变化。

味道浓郁的地方风味瓦煲类菜式,如瓦煲山瑞、瓦煲葱油鸡、瓦煲炔鲤鱼、瓦煲大鳝(鳗鱼)、什锦煲、煲仔饭系列等,还有如“杏元凤爪炖水鱼”之类的汤羹,以南杏、元肉,加上鸡脚、水鱼炖出来的汤汁,十分适合粤人崇尚冬春“滋补身体”的习俗。

夏秋时节,岭南酷暑炎热,时令的菜肴如“八宝鲜莲冬瓜盅”、“百花酿鲜笋”、“蚝油鲜菇”、“白灼鲜鱿”、“白灼海虾”、“油泡鲜虾仁”、“清蒸海鲜”、“白切鸡”、“明炉乳猪”、“挂炉烧鸭”等广州名菜,最体现南国的风味特色及广东人喜爱清淡、爽口的食性。

近年来,广州菜也追求“新派”。但几千年所形成的选料广博奇杂,菜肴讲究鲜、爽、嫩、滑的南国风味对创新的变化影响颇深。“万变不离其中”,传统的美点薄皮鲜虾饺、干蒸烧卖、糯米鸡、娥姐粉果、荔脯秋芋角、马蹄糕、叉烧包、蟹黄包、奶油鸡蛋卷以及名小吃肠粉、炒河粉、艇仔粉、及第粥、猪红汤、伦教糕、萝卜糕、咸水角、凤爪、卤牛杂、薄脆、白糖沙翁、德昌咸煎饼、大良崩砂等更是历久不衰。这表明广州菜系植根的土壤是十分深厚的。

著名的菜肴有:三蛇龙虎凤大会 五蛇羹 盐锔鸡 蚝油牛肉 烤乳猪 干煎大虾

Chaozhou Cuisine

Chaozhou is the name of a coastal region around the Shantou district of eastern Guangdong Province. One of the major schools in Guangdong cuisine, Chaozhou cuisine originated from Chaoshan Plain about one thousand years ago.

Naturally, as a fishing area, seafood features prominently in Chaozhou cuisine, which is often enhanced by piquant sauces, such as tangerine jam for steamed lobsters and broad-bean paste for fish. The mouthwatering prawns, oysters, crabs and eels, combined with home-made pickles, play a symphony of traditional cuisine and leave people with everlasting impression. Such richly flavored dishes reflect the culinary influence of the Chaozhou people's northeastern neighbors, the Fujianese.

Yet Chaozhou cuisine has also been greatly influenced by its southwestern neighbors, the Cantonese. Many Chaozhou classic dishes are light and tasty, with the abundant use of vegetables. The crisp delicacy of deep-fried leaf vegetables in Chaozhou dishes adds a gleaming green, edible garnish to many dishes.

Chaozhou cuisine stresses unique combinations of various soy sauces and flavorings: salty, sweet, sour, spicy, or astringent. Fish sauce and oyster sauce are favorite seasonings. Chaozhou dishes are usually cooked over a slow fire, stewed, deep fired, steamed, stir-fried or pickled. The dishes boast the skill of local chefs in vegetable carving. Magnificent designs -- flowers, birds, dragons and phoenixes made from carrots and gingers -- adorn Chaozhou banquets, especially the cold dishes. The tasty dishes are not only yummy but also presentable.

The region's chefs are also acknowledged masters in the preparation and cooking of two delicacies, namely, shark's fin and bird's nest. Chaozhou cuisine is famous, too, for its shellfish dishes and wide variety of sweet dishes (with pumpkin and taro).

Other famous dishes include salt-baked goose with vinegar juice, steamed shrimp with orange juice, black-bean chicken, vegetarian soup and crabs. A tea ceremony is held during the serving of dishes, not just for performance but also to aid digestion.


浙菜

浙菜有它自己独特的烹调方法。除人们的地域性口味偏爱外,富饶的特产也是其中因素之一。

浙江东濒大海,有千里长的海岸线,盛产海味,如著名的舟山渔场的黄鱼、带鱼、石斑鱼、锦绣龙虾及蛎、蛤、虾、蟹,还有淡菜、象山青蟹、温州蝤蛑和近年发展的养殖虾等。又是大米与蚕桑的主要产地,素有“鱼米之乡”的称号。中部为浙江盆地,即金华大粮仓,闻名中外的金华火腿就是选用全国瘦肉型猪之一的“金华两头鸟”制成的。加上举世闻名的杭州龙井茶叶、绍兴老酒,都是烹饪中不可缺少的上乘原料。

浙菜的历史,可上溯到吴越春秋。越王勾践为复国,加紧军备,并在今绍兴市的稽山,办起大型的养鸡场,为前线准备作战粮草用鸡。故浙菜中最古的菜要首推绍兴名菜“清汤越鸡”。其次是杭州的“宋嫂鱼羹”,这系典籍中所记载的“因而五嫂鱼羹”,它距今至少有880年的历史。浙菜的烹饪原料在距今四五千年前已相当丰富,东坡肉、咸件儿、蜜汁火方、叫化童鸡等传统名菜均离不开这些烹饪原料。

浙菜由杭州菜、宁波菜、绍兴菜组成。菜式小巧玲珑,清俊逸秀,菜品鲜美滑嫩,脆软清爽。运用香糟调味。常用烹调技法有30多种,注重煨、焖、烩、炖等。现在一些传统菜加创新,绍菜仍占主位。宁波发挥了靠海鲜的优势,温州菜发展了许多以海鲜为原料的名菜。

杭州规模较大的有西湖楼外楼,开设于清道光年间,以西湖醋鱼、龙井虾仁闻名。有城内清和坊的王润兴,人称“皇饭儿”。以鱼头豆腐,人称木榔豆腐,件儿肉、腌督笋拿手。绍兴有兰香馆,蓑衣虾球、专门烹制头肚醋鱼等标准绍菜。浙东宁波有东福园,咸菜大汤黄鱼、冰糖甲鱼等名菜是正宗的宁波地方传统菜。浙菜以其浓郁的文化特色享誉海内外。

著名的菜肴有:西湖醋鱼 生爆蟮片 东坡肉 龙井虾仁 干炸响铃 叫化鸡 清汤鱼圆 干菜焖肉

西湖醋鱼是源于西湖渔家叔嫂除暴安良的民间故事,又名“叔嫂传珍”。是杭州历久不衰的传统名菜。

此莱采用活鱼,烹饪前先将鱼饿养过,这样鱼肉变得结实,其体内杂物及泥土气也排泄除掉,厨师火候掌握严格,菜肴烧成后,鱼的形态仍保持鲜活,菜色泽红亮,肉质鲜嫩,酸中藏甜,味美如吃蟹肉。

Zhejiang Cuisine

Zhejiang cuisine, also called Zhe Cai for short, is one of the eight famous culinary schools in China. Comprising the specialties of Hangzhou, Ningbo and Shaoxing in Zhejiang Province regarded as land of fish and rice, Zhejiang cuisine, not greasy, wins its reputation for freshness, tenderness, softness, and smoothness of its dishes with mellow fragrance. Hangzhou cuisine is the most famous one among the three.

Hangzhou cuisine is characterized by its elaborate preparation and varying techniques of cooking, such as sauteing, stewing, and stir- and deep-frying. Hangzhou food tastes fresh and crisp, varying with the change of season. Ningbo food is a bit salty but delicious. Specializing in steamed, roasted and braised seafood, Ningbo cuisine is particular in retaining the original freshness, tenderness and softness. Shaoxing cuisine offers fresh aquatic food and poultry that has a special rural flavor, sweet in smell, soft and glutinous in taste, thick in gravy and strong in season.

Each of the three sub-cuisine traditions is noted for its special flavor and taste, but they are all characterized by the careful selection of ingredients, emphasizing minute preparation, and unique, fresh and tender tastes.

Zhejiang cuisine specializes in quick-frying, stir-frying, deep-frying, simmering and steaming, obtaining the natural flavor and taste. Special care is taken in the cooking process to make the food fresh, crispy and tender. Thanks to exquisite preparation, the dishes are not only delicious in taste and but also extremely elegant in appearance. Zhejiang cuisine is best represented by Hangzhou dishes, including Hangzhou roast chicken (commonly known as Beggar's chicken), Dongpo pork, west lake fish in vinegar sauce, Songsao Shredded Fishsoup, etc.

Legend has it that Beggar's chicken was invented by a Hangzhou thief. The story goes that because the thief had no stove, he wrapped the stolen bird in clay and baked it in a hole in the ground; another version explains that he was a hungry thief who found a way to cook his bird and keep it and its aroma secret!

The famous restaurants in Hangzhou are: Louwailou Restaurant, Hangzhou Restaurant, Xizhongxi Restaurant, etc. Louwailou Restaurant boasts a history of over 100 years and is noted for west lake fish in vinegar sauce, fried shrimps with Longjing tea.